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01

Building a Backyard Food Factory - If You Have the Space

Author // Greg Seaman

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Building a Backyard Food Factory
If You Have the Space
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If You Have the Space

In gardening, success breeds expansion. If your backyard has enough space, you might want to add a few more crops. Here are some suggestions to make the best use of the space.

Potatoes. As the cost of bread rises, potatoes are more and more valued as a nutritious starchy food. Potatoes are easy to grow, can take marginal soil, and give a good yield for the space they use. Early “new” potatoes can be planted in mid-spring, just before the last frost; winter varieties are planted in early summer. Potatoes are planted directly in the ground, in rows, from cut seed potatoes or old potatoes that have started to sprout.

Blueberries. This highly nutritious berry plant is a perennial, waist-high shrub which should be planted along one of the side borders of your vegetable plot. The soil should be slightly acidic. Choose from locally recommended varieties. Plant six to eight bushes for a reasonable harvest, and plant two varieties to promote fertilization. Fruit is borne on the previous years’ shoots, so once the plant is 3 to 4 years old, prune out the older, central shoots to stimulate new growth.

Bush cucumbers. Choose from locally recommended varieties of slicing-type cucumber. Bush varieties are compact, and better for small gardens. Start from seed in pots, or sow directly. The soil must be rich, moist and well drained, so make a small hill and plant two or three seedlings. To retail moisture, cut holes in black sheet plastic and set it over the seedlings. Protect the seedlings from cold spring nights and pests by covering them with a clear plastic or glass container. Be sure to remove it as soon as the sun comes out, or the seedlings will get too hot.

Strawberries. Strawberries are a good crop to get children interested in gardening, but you’ll have competition from the predators. Netting is not good enough to protect it—birds will get caught in the net. Build a frame with 1-inch poultry mesh around the entire bed. To prolong the harvest, try “ever-bearing” varieties, which bear fruit all summer.

Spinach beets. These beets are easy to grow, and not a favorite of slugs and caterpillars. Sow seeds directly into the soil and thin out the seedlings when they come up. Beets grown for greens will produce all summer; just harvest the leaves for salad greens as you need them.


Crops We No Longer Grow

Some gardeners may howl at these suggestions, and rightly so, as we each have our own preferences and tastes. However, over the years we have given up on a few crops because of difficulties with pest management, crop yield or their relatively low prices in stores and farmer’s markets.

Corn. Corn is a heavy feeder, requiring lots of fertilizer. Keeping up with the demands of enriching the soil can be difficult, and raccoons have a taste for corn. Corn also takes up a lot of space for the yield, especially when the price of corn at local farmer’s markets is so low.

Carrots. Carrots take up very little room considering the yield, but require rich, deep soil, free of stones. Prone to rust fly damage, carrots need to be grown under a floating row cover. While a few carrot plants, especially the baby varieties, are recommended for a child’s garden plot, we were never successful at growing a carrot crop. It was too difficult keeping the row cover anchored in winds, and rust flies would get in.

Pumpkins. It takes a lot of space to grow pumpkins; their vines can trail along the ground for twenty feet. And in the end, you get a large squash that doesn’t store well. Better to give any squash space to a good winter keeper, like buttercup.

Watermelons. Watermelons are similar to pumpkins in the space they need to grow. They have to be well-grown to be large and tasty; in our experience, the fruit was always smaller than expected and not very sweet. Not the best use of space, especially for an inexpensive, short-season melon.


Planting Tips

Basic gardening tips are outlined on the next page. Here are some other general planting tips.

Seeds or starters? Garden vegetables can be grown from seed sown indoors in pots or trays, sown outdoors directly into the garden beds, or transplanted from starters bought at a garden center. When sowing seeds indoors in trays or pots, use a fine, sterilized potting mix (do not use compost or garden soil for starting seeds). Stand pots in water until the soil is fully wetted. Set pots on a windowsill for light, but remove at night if frosty.

Some plants, like peas and beans, must be sown directly. Plants which are directly sown are usually sown thickly (very close together), and then thinned once they are sprouts. This ensures a full crop, since some of the seeds may not sprout.

Assign permanent spots for perennials. Most vegetables are annuals. However, some, like asparagus, are perennials. Once perennials are established, you won’t want to move them. Take care to locate perennial crops in an area that won’t interfere with future plantings of annual crops.

Plant extras. It is unlikely that all your seeds will sprout, so plant more than you think you’ll need, to ensure a rich harvest.

Avoid direct sunlight when setting your starters. Do it on a clouded or overcast day, or in the later afternoon, so that the delicate young leaves don’t wilt in direct sun. Keep them well watered until they are established. Smaller roots have difficulty drawing enough moisture from the soil.

Transplant with care. Plants which have been started in any type of container should never be uprooted or separated from the soil. Lightly water the pot so the soil is moist, then coax the seedling out using a gentle tap to the side of the pot. Turn the pot on its side and the seedling should easily slide out. When setting out plants started in peat pots, gently tear off the rim and the bottom of the pots, leaving the rest intact to protect the roots. The remaining sides of the pot will break down into the soil over time.

After transplanting new plants, create a berm of soil around their base with a slight depression in the center. This directs water down toward the central root zone, and reduces the amount of water lost to runoff.

Arrange your plants in “tiers” facing the sun. Watch how the sun travels in your garden. Plant your garden with the shortest plants at the southern end, and build up to the tallest plants at the northern end. Make sure your taller plants don’t block the sunlight for the smaller plants. Plants which are supported by a trellis, like squash, peas or pole beans, should be placed toward the northern and eastern edges of the garden plot, so as not to shade other plants.

Plant successively. Rather than plant a crop, such as lettuce or broccoli, all at once, it’s better to plant several crops spaced two weeks apart. This will prevent a windfall of one crop all at one time, and will extend the harvest over the full length of the growing season.

Protect your seedlings. A small, clear shelter will protect seedlings from pests, warm the soil, and provide more favorable conditions for delicate seedlings. Use a cloche or cold frame for the job. However, be sure that the soil is kept watered, as the cloche will prevent rain from wetting the soil.

Tuck plants into bare spots. Bare spots invite weeds. Fill in any bare spots with small annuals like lettuce, celery, mint, nasturtium or parsley.

Don’t add nitrogen once plants are established. Manure, bloodmeal, canola meal and other high-nitrogen sources are essential for vigorous plant and leaf growth, but should be withheld once the plant is established or shows any signs of flowering. Too much nitrogen will promote more plant growth when the plant should be producing fruit. Large, leggy plants with little fruit yield are an indicator of too much nitrogen.

Keep a planting record. Make a note of which plants are planted in each bed. At the end of the season you can note any problems or improvements for subsequent crops. Also, this record makes it easy to decide which beds to rotate crops into the next spring.

Rotate crops each year. Rotation will often prevent reinfection of vegetables from disease spores from last years’ crops. Tomatoes, for instance, are susceptible to verticillium wilt, which remains in the soil over the winter and can attack a new crop.



Planting Basics: When and How to Plant Vegetables

The basic soil requirements for plants to grow and produce fruit are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). The relative amounts of these elements is listed on most bags of fertilizer and soil amendments.

Nitrogen is essential for vigorous stem and leaf growth. Sources of nitrogen include manure, bloodmeal, bonemeal, canola meal and cottonseed meal.

Phosphorous is essential for strong root systems and flowering. It can increase fruit development and seed yield. Sources of phosphorous are rock phosphate, blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal and urine.

Potassium is essential for cell division and strong stems. It helps fight disease, improve the quality of fruit, and decrease the water requirement of plants. Sources of potassium are wood ashes, greensand, manure and compost.

You’ll need to schedule your planting according to the seasonal temperature range in your region. Early-season plants like peas, Swiss chard, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, turnips and onions grow best at temperatures between 50 and 70°F (10–20°C). These plants prefer a cooler time of the year to grow, and will usually tolerate frost.

Vegetables like lettuce, celery, cabbage, carrots, radishes, parsnips and leeks have intermediate temperature requirements. They grow best in temperatures between 60 and 80°F (15–25°C). Set these out after the early-season plants are established.

Warm-season vegetables grow best in temperatures above 70°F (20°C) and will die if exposed to frost. These include corn, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, beans and all the vine crops. So make sure the majority of their growing season is in the warmer months.

For crop-specific instructions, read the seed packets. Planting schedules, planting instructions and days to maturity will be listed on the seed packets you buy for each vegetable you plant.


Pathways Issue 29 CoverThis article appeared in Pathways to Family Wellness magazine, Issue #29.

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